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<b><span STYLE="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 18pt;">临涣老茶馆为何六百年来经久不衰</SPAN></B></P>
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<b><span STYLE="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14pt;">赵汗青</SPAN></B></P>
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临涣，位于安徽省淮北市濉溪县南部。春秋时属宋国，秦时置铚县，南朝梁置临涣郡，北齐为临涣县，元至元二年（1336年）废县。今为镇。临涣古城址呈正方形，每边长达1300米。东、西、北三面城墙保存基本完好。其南城墙外又有一小城遗址，每边长约百余米。该城建于汉，隋、唐时又有维修、加固该城址至今遗迹清楚，城墙高大，其中北墙平均高度达7米以上。城址内现存的文昌宫（原名昌帝庙），为中共淮海战役总前委旧址。</SPAN></P>
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临涣茶馆蕴涵着自己独特的优势和鲜明特点。临涣老茶馆的最大特点是以家为店。临涣集镇坐落在浍河北岸，老茶馆大都近水临街，多依家舍而设。临涣的独特泉水最宜沏茶。临涣城下四大古泉各具特色，它们是回龙泉、金珠泉、饮马泉和龙须泉，四泉沿浍河之水“┗”形排开。临涣得天独厚的古泉资源，是临涣茶馆名扬四方的一大优势。临涣茶馆的茶有着鲜明的特色和唯一性，临涣当地不产茶，而是专门取自两百里以外的六安的茶梗，临涣人把这种低廉的茶梗叫做红茶棒。说来也怪，在六安本地很少有人用这种棒棒茶，在其他地方用棒棒茶的几乎没有。最令人惊异的是，这种茶梗经临涣泉水的沏泡，雾气结顶，色艳味香，入口绵甜，回味无穷。但是一旦将这种茶梗带出临涣，用其他地方的水沏泡，永远不可能有这么好的味道、舒适的感觉和奇特的功效。很明显，六安的棒棒茶与临涣的古泉水达到了不可代替的完美结合。常饮这种棒棒茶，有春生津、夏消暑、秋提神、冬生暖的奇特功效，另外还有解酒的功能。临涣棒棒茶的另一个特点是多饮不撑腹，无论喝多少，都不会有撑胀的感觉。饭前饮之能增进食欲，饭后饮之能帮助消化，闲暇饮之可舒神清心，劳累后饮之能解疲提神，常年饮之能延年益寿，一时饮之能充饥解渴。</SPAN></P>
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临焕人的饮茶习俗，据《通志载记》记载，始于明代，迄今已有六百余年的历史。临涣集上现有二十家茶馆,茶座三百余张,茶壶六百余把,早晨五点开张,晚上十点后熄炉。年复一年,日复一日,茶馆生机盎然地升生存在现代文明里。历史上，临涣便利的水路交通把临涣茶馆推到了一个重要发展时期。临涣由于有泡河和浍河两条河流穿境而过，占尽了水利交通之便。两河在临涣南端会合，下游入淮河，进入长江；唐代浍河上游挖掘鸿沟直通东京汴梁。明、清时期，浍河上游可达河南省商丘，泡河上游可达河南省民权县王六口。豫、皖、苏、浙四省的船只都可由浍河和泡河进入临涣地区，临涣与周边的经济文化交流非常便捷和频繁，因此成为远近有名的古代名城。明清时期浍河中往来船只十分众多，停泊在临涣码头桥东西两边等待装卸货物的船只每日不下100艘，最大木船载量为10吨。临涣当地专门依靠水运生活的船只24户，具有大小木船182只。过去，临涣由于地处苏、鲁、豫、皖贸易往来的交通要埠，这里逐渐成为过往商贾休闲的重要场所。
四面八方的客商聚集在一起，品茶是其中必不可少的内容，这样当地的人们也逐渐养成了喝茶的习惯，并一直延续了下来。</SPAN></P>
<p STYLE="text-indent: 28pt;"><span STYLE="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:宋体;font-size:14.0000pt;mso-font-kerning:0.0000pt;">
茶馆是临涣这一特定区域乡土文化的载体，它浓缩着一方百姓的精神，标志着一方百姓的生活风格，凸显着一个相对独立人群的价值。茶馆蕴涵的茶饮文化，是基于农民对健康长寿最朴实的追求；茶馆蕴涵的的娱乐文化，是农闲时光和晚年余生最基本的精神满足；茶馆蕴涵的社会功能，是农民劳作以外自身价值的又一种真实体现。临涣茶馆的所有文化形态，几乎都是这一区域文化的典型表现。在临涣，不管时光流转，不管社会变迁，不管政府更迭，不管人事代谢，乡土观念和亲情观念早已化成深深的情结，植根于茶客的骨髓之中。</SPAN></P>
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现存的临涣老茶馆多是古色古香的明清建筑。青砖粉墙、重梁飞椽、小样黛瓦。在大梁的内侧下面置一拱梁，与大梁的走向并行，穿过墙壁，伸出墙外。内侧用一圆柱形立柱撑住主梁。伸出墙外的部分，下有马腿作为撑柱，撑柱的上端连接拱梁，下端插入墙体。为稳固起见，有的在马腿下边的前面伸入墙体的平面放一木板作为支点，叫做稳梁板，外侧拱梁子上面为出厦和挡风板。临涣茶馆的门面简陋陈朴，有旧式的三开或多开门页，褐色、厚重的木板门,古旧的铜门环,精细的透窗雕棂,刚劲的黄旧横梁。室内经年烟熏火燎，黑乎乎的。房舍内的地面凹凸不平，乡土气很浓。</SPAN></P>
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临涣茶馆是高谈阔论的好去处。临涣人爱进茶馆，是因为临涣人喜欢“摆龙门阵”。什么话题都有，涉及时事、社会、文学、艺术、哲学等。有的茶客默不作声，只在一旁静静地听着。茶客们在这里可以一边品饮棒棒红茶，一边海阔天空，谈笑风生，无拘无束，实为人生至乐。茶馆是较劲竞技的好去处。解放后的茶馆还增加了打牌、下棋、搓麻将、读书看报、赏花遛鸟等活动。茶馆是休闲娱乐的好去处。有人说”戏曲是用茶水浇灌起来的一门艺术”。下茶馆的人可以边饮茶，边欣赏具有浓郁地方特色的曲艺节目。最常见的是评书、大鼓书、坠子。时常也有莲花唠子、清音、金钱板等客串。茶馆是接客待友的好去处。小镇民居狭窄，亲友来访，无法在家中接待，往往起身招呼亲友：“走，茶馆吃茶去。”茶馆是洽谈生意的好去处。七十二行，行行都把茶馆当做结交聚会的好去处。茶馆因而成为社会生活的一面镜子。商人在茶馆隔着袖子互掰手指头，扭捏比划，论质讨价，发出的声音或震耳欲聋，或低声细语。几盅红茶，也就促成了一笔生意。</SPAN></P>
<p STYLE="text-indent: 28pt;"><span STYLE="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:宋体;font-size:14.0000pt;mso-font-kerning:0.0000pt;">
茶馆还是调解纠纷的好去处。从某种意义上讲，茶馆就是一个“民事法庭”。
解放后，随着我国法制的不断健全，到茶馆去理论的人逐渐减少，但这种习惯依然保存至今。茶馆是议事决策的好去处。若家有婚丧嫁娶、置办家业的大事，常邀几位老兄弟到茶馆里一聚。一壶老茶，一捧瓜籽儿，私私窃窃的就把事情商量妥了。茶馆是江湖救急的好去处。在过去，个别生活无着的人，实在走投无路了，到茶馆去求救，往往都会得到茶馆主人或茶客的资助。</SPAN></P>
<p STYLE="text-indent: 28pt;"><span STYLE="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:宋体;font-size:14.0000pt;mso-font-kerning:0.0000pt;">
临涣的茶文化，全国多家报社前对临涣的茶文化进行过专门报道，人民日报海外版也连篇报道。中央电视台等多家电台进行过专门采访和详细报道。临涣把每年的农历二月初二定为“棒棒茶”节，届时举行盛大的庆祝和文化展示活动。</SPAN></P>
<p STYLE="text-indent: 28pt;"><span STYLE="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:宋体;font-size:14.0000pt;mso-font-kerning:0.0000pt;">
临涣茶馆作为临涣茶文化里重要的一部分，其立足点和吸引人的是其文化底蕴和内涵，失去这一内涵，茶馆也就失去了特色和本色，失去了格调与情趣，也就失去了其生命的活力。茶馆最终得以幸存并仍然是这个城镇日常生活中最活跃的部分，充分显示了它的特色与本色和极其旺盛的生命力。生命在重复的形式中才显出它的坚韧</SPAN><span STYLE="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:宋体;font-size:14.0000pt;mso-font-kerning:0.0000pt;">。</SPAN></P>
<p STYLE="text-indent: 28pt;"><span STYLE="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:宋体;font-size:14.0000pt;mso-font-kerning:0.0000pt;">
有诗人赞曰</SPAN><span STYLE="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:宋体;font-size:14.0000pt;mso-font-kerning:0.0000pt;">：“</SPAN><span STYLE="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:宋体;font-size:14.0000pt;mso-font-kerning:0.0000pt;">茶客盈门乐未央，渌泉细煮味飘香，云开绝壑调悠扬。陈盏湮纹烟燎灶，雕棂缺角雾飞窗，新知旧雨晚秋长。</SPAN><span STYLE="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:宋体;font-size:14.0000pt;mso-font-kerning:0.0000pt;">”</SPAN></P>
<p STYLE="text-indent: 28pt;"><span STYLE="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:宋体;font-size:14.0000pt;mso-font-kerning:0.0000pt;">
临涣老茶绾，是一个装满了600年历史的活化石。</SPAN></P>
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